Alone With The Gods

Chicago’s Great Culinary Middle Ground

foodofthegods:

By PETER MEEHAN @ The New York Times

PAUL KAHAN is one of Chicago’s best chefs, and his restaurants are reliable bellwethers for what’s going on in the city’s dining scene. When Blackbird, his first restaurant, opened 12 years ago, it presaged Chicago’s rebirth as one of the planet’s most dynamic restaurant cities — a promise fulfilled by restaurants like Alinea, Schwa and L20. Mr. Kahan followed Blackbird with Avec and the Publican, restaurants that are less formal, better suited to a city that needed less pomp and polish to go with good food.

A few weeks ago, Mr. Kahan opened a fourth restaurant, Big Star Taqueria and Bar, in what was once a mechanic’s garage. There’s country on the jukebox and a complement of tequila behind the bar, but the real draw is the tacos, including spit-roasted al pastor, which go for $2 apiece.

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